Eggnog Product Taste Test

The last time I made eggnog was in college. It was a recipe from one of the first cookbooks I ever owned, the Joy of Cooking, and it involved whipped egg whites and heavy cream, lots of sugar and brandy. It was voluminous, fluffy and delicious but a fair amount of work and it served an army. 

When the holidays roll around, I'm always tempted, but often disappointed by the eggnog available at the supermarket. This year I was sent a sample of eggnog from Organic Valley and was surprised by how good it was. It wasn't fluffy, but it was rich and creamy and it didn't have any strange flavors or weird texture. I wanted to see if other eggnogs were equally as good. Thanks to a connection at Whole Foods, the next thing I knew a handful of local food writers and bloggers were sitting around a table tasting eggnogs and also some desserts, cheeses (Uniekaas truffled gouda, oh la la!) a delectable baked spiral sliced Wellshire ham and wine for good measure (more about that later). 

Here are the results:

Califia Farms Holiday Nog (Almond milk): $3.99/48 oz

This is apparently a very popular eggnog this year, but our tasters didn't think much of it. It was a little bland and the texture was odd. Perhaps vegans like it? 

So Delicious Dairy-Free Nog (coconut milk): $2.99/quart, Non-GMO Project Verified

This was the most surprising eggnog, because none of us expected it to be very good. And yet all of us liked it! It was rich, had nice spice flavor and no artificial notes. BEST NON-DAIRY

Clover Stornetta Egg Nog: $3.99/quart or $6.49/half gallon

This was way too sweet. Not recommended. 

Organic Valley Eggnog: on sale at Whole Foods ‘til 1/1 for $3.99/quart (regular $4.99/quart). Organic.

Hand's down, the favorite among all the tasters. Really rich, the freshest and cleanest tasting of all the eggnogs and reasonably priced, especially considering the quality. It had a homemade taste and just the right notes of vanilla and nutmeg. WINNER

Traderspoint Creamery Eggnog: $7.49/quart. Organic, grassfed

We hoped this would be something special, but the spicing was too heavy and the texture not very creamy. 

Straus Family Creamery: $6.49/quart, Organic, Non-GMO Project Verified

A solid though pricey choice, it just wasn't nearly as good as the Organic Valley nog. 

RUNNER UP 

A big thank you to Whole Foods for hosting our little tasting party, Organic Valley for sending me a sample, and to my pals on the tasting panel. 

More? 
Check out Sean's review and Molly's review

Americana Culinary Roots

Most cookbooks focus on what's new, but not all of them. And there are definitely some advantages to looking back. These books are all about American cooking, but each takes a closer look at our culinary history and regional differences. 

Inside the California Food Revolution is an amazing book that details the "thirty years that changed our culinary consciousness." It WAS a revolution that took place in California, but truly the effects were felt all across the country. Joyce Goldstein was there, a successful restaurateur and chef as well as food writer and so her connections and knowledge of the time make this book really stand out. She tells the stories of the people who shaped what and how we eat in the crucial era from 1970 until 2000. Her admiration for the pioneers of the time comes through and her engaging style make this a must read. No recipes are in the book, but a number of menus that help document the time. 

A Century of Restaurants is another definite "keeper" because it combines food, history and travel. It must have been a very enjoyable book to research and write, because it catalogues stories and recipes from one hundred of America's most historic and successful restaurants. It's just good fun to look up iconic restaurants and read about them and see a recipe. For California the book includes Philippe the Original in Los Angeles, Duarte's Tavern in Pescadero. The Tadich Grill in San Francisco and Fenton's Creamery in Oakland. If you are planning a trip, it's a perfect book to reference before you go. Some of my favorite old time places are here such as Durgin Park and The Union Oyster House in Boston, Commander's Palace in New Orleans and Ferrara in New York. It's wonderfully researched and well written. 

CookingLight Lighten Up, America! Is a fun book of regional specialties, all given something of a makeover. The book has fresh favorites like Brussels Sprouts with Bacon and classics like Lobster Rolls, all with tips on how to lighten up the recipe without sacrificing flavor. The book also shares how some dishes became classics. You might be surprised to find things like Grilled Jalapeño Poppers and Pigs in a Blanket, but they are there. They've even updated Chicken Marbella from the classic Silver Palate Cookbook! I particularly like the pages on hot dogs, which show how they are regionalized from Hawaii to Chicago. The book has tons of photos, of dishes but also restaurants and cookbooks, ingredients and home cooks.

The Way We Ate calls upon one hundred chefs and food writers to share recipes they associate with a specific year or in some cases decade in American cooking, between 1900 until 2000. The connection of the recipe to the year may seem like a stretch but you can't argue with the results. You will want to try Michael White's Polenta con Ragu di Salsiccia or Ben Polinger's Raspberry-Cured Salmon with Salmon Tartare, Ginger and Meyer Lemon. I was a little dismayed at what seems like recipes only from New York based chefs and food writers. It would have been nice to have seen more contributors from beyond the 212 area code.


Not a cookbook at all, but a history book. Repast, Dining out at the Dawn of the New American Century, 1900-1910 shares menus, photographs and the stories of the day as they pertain to the history and culture of cuisine. From the tenements of Chinatown to the stately hotels and presidential dinners, it's detailed with lots of anecdotes and stories you probably haven't heard before. Learn about early tea rooms where ladies dined and the precursors to fast food restaurants. Or how wealthy magnates threw lavish dinner parties transforming dining rooms and hotel ballrooms into farm yards, goldmines and miniature Versailles gardens. It's definitely for the history buff.

Disclaimer: these books were provided to me as review copies and this post includes affiliate links.

Sweet Dreams: Movie Review

What brings joy? Dancing, drumming, ice cream? Yes, yes, yes! Sweet Dreams is the story of a group of women in Rwanda who come together first breaking barriers as drummers, and then in a cooperative where they make and sell ice cream. 

The documentary juxtaposes the personal stories of the women, who have suffered so much as widows, orphans and children of some the murderous perpetrators during the genocide in their country, with the story of their journey forward, trying to find meaning, reconciliation and joy again--all in a country where there is no ice cream. And so the Sweet Dreams are for the future, a future you can actually taste. 

It's impossible not to be moved by these women, and to admire their resilience, creative artistry, hard work and hopes for the future. Can the land of "milk and honey" find redemption? That's the real question because this is not just the story of a group of women, but the story of Rwanda. Their path is not without drama and setbacks, but ultimately it's a story of triumph and an inspiring one that will make you believe in the power of the human spirit.   At 84 minutes it's a tightly edited gripping film and every scene counts. 

Sweet Dreams has frequently been an audience favorite at film festivals. It's opens tonight in the Bay Area, though there are multiple showings, only one per theater will feature the filmmakers and stars of the film. Don't miss it! 

Opera Plaza in San Francisco (shows for one week)

• Fri 12/6, early eve 7:00 pm show– Q&A with Rob & Lisa Fruchtman and Kiki Katese, founder of Ingoma Nshya with Alexis Miesen of Blue Marble Ice Cream. 

Opera Plaza

601 Van Ness

San Francisco, CA 94102

(415) 267-4893

Clay Theater in San Francisco

• Sat, 12/7, 1:30 pm show– Q&A with Rob & Lisa Fruchtman and Kiki Katese, founder of Ingoma Nshya PLUS Special live drumming performance by The Ingoma Nshya drummers featured in the film:Ingabire Rose, Mujawayezu Therese, Uwintiji Clementine, Uwamariya Clementine

Clay Theater

2261 Fillmore Street

San Francisco

(415) 561-9921

Shattuck in Berkeley (shows for one week)

• Sat, 12/7, 7:10 pm– Q&A with Rob & Lisa Fruchtman and Kiki Katese, founder of Ingoma Nshya PLUS Special live drumming performance by The Ingoma Nshya drummers featured in the film: Ingabire Rose, Mujawayezu Therese, Uwintiji Clementine, Uwamariya Clementine

Shattuck

2086 Allston Way

Berkeley

(510) 845-7300

Christopher B. Smith Rafael Film Center in San Rafael

• Sun, 12/8, 7pm show – Q&A with Rob & Lisa Fruchtman and Kiki Katese, founder of Ingoma Nshya PLUS Special live drumming performance by The Ingoma Nshya drummers featured in the film: Ingabire Rose, Mujawayezu Therese, Uwintiji Clementine, Uwamariya Clementine

Christopher B. Smith Rafael Film Center

1118 4th Street

San Rafael

(415) 454-1222

Christmas, Italian Style

Italians really know how to celebrate Christmas, called Natale in Italian. It's not about tacky decorations or shopping frenzy, if there is any excess, it's of delicious food, well wishes and love for family. The traditional celebration of "La Befana" for the epiphany, Christmas eve midnight mass and multi course meals with lots of special dishes are all wonderful, but it's the "fare gli auguri" that I appreciate most about Natale. 

Like so many concepts in Italian auguri which is translated as "best wishes" is a multilayered and complex concept and almost impossible to fully translate into English, and it has significant religious and moral dimension. And I promise if you spend time with Italians around the holidays,  you will experience it. My friend Valeria describes it much better than I possibly could. 

"Currently auguri is used for every good wish, from a birthday to a degree to a wedding. But I think that Christmas "auguri" are special because it is the end of the year and we all pause to take a look at the year passed and start thinking about the next one, so it is a time for reflection and balance. We usually are grateful for the good things we have and wish to improve the not so good ones, so auguri is a wish to improve and do better, but it is not referred to material wealth alone, it is in general a wish for improvement and happiness." 

Really, what could be better than that? But it has to be experienced. Short of going to Italy for the holiday, I encourage you to attend some of the Italian events in the Bay Area where you can enjoy a bit of this very Italian, true spirit of Christmas.

Mercato di Natale 
December 7 & 8 from 10 am - 6 pm at Fort Mason 

Germans aren't the only ones with Christmas markets! This Italian Christmas market takes place this Saturday and Sunday December 7 & 8 from 10 am - 6 pm at the Museo Italo-Americano at Fort Mason Center Building C. There will be artisanal Italian foods, handmade jewelry, accessories, craft items and more. I hope to see you there! 

Festa dei Dolci Italiani 
December 12th, 7 pm at Fort Mason tickets $35

This annual holiday event at the Museo Italo Americano is hosted by the Museo Auxiliary. Wine, prosecco, cheese and fabulous sweet and savory treats prepared by Auxiliary members will be served. RSVP to 415.673.2200 or email for an invitation. 

An Italian Holiday Dinner  
December 19th, 6:30 pm at Cavallo Point tickets $95

Learn to make Casunziei all'Ampezzana (red beet tortelli with brown butter and poppy seeds)

Tagliatelle al Cacao con Speck e Panna (cocoa tagliatelle with smoked ham and cream) and Lasagna alla Bolognese (classic bolognese lasagna)

I highly recommend Viola Buitoni's classes. I can't imagine a better Christmas present for yourself or someone you love. I finally got to take one and it was even better than I could have imagined. Viola is from a family famous in Italy and the world for both pasta (yes, that Buitoni) and Perugina chocolates. While the family no longer runs either of those companies, Viola's firsthand knowledge and her warm and encouraging manner will inspire you to tackle any Italian cooking project with confidence. Her classes virtually always sell out, so sign up for updates from her blog so you will know as soon as classes are announced.  Her pasta and polenta classes in January still have a few spaces at 18 Reasons (check the schedule for more details). 

Cran Raspberry Crumb Bars Recipe & $100 Giveaway!

November means the arrival of cooler weather, and the beginning of the holiday season. Cranberries play a starring role in holiday fare, in part because their season is so fleeting. But raspberries, which grow practically year round here in California make for attractive co-stars (check out their availability on the Driscoll's calendar). With this in mind, I set out to make a jam bar that would highlight both fresh berries.

Tangy and buttery my Cran Raspberry Crumb Bars are the result of a happy accident because I let the food processor run a little too long. Instead of chopping the nuts, I pulsed the almonds along with the sugar until they were completely pulverized. Oops! But all is well that ends well. Perhaps jam bars are popular because they are hard to mess up? 

Cran Raspberry Crumb Bars would be perfect for a holiday cookie party or to give as a gift. The bottom of the bars is basically almond shortbread and the filling is a very lightly sweetened combination of the fresh cranberries and raspberries. The organic raspberries I used were grown in the US and provided courtesy of Driscoll's. They balanced out the strong sour flavor of the fresh cranberries. 

Driscoll's offers lots of recipes for using berries and a system for identifying where berries were grown. Look for the code on the bottom of the clam shell package and enter the number at mydriscolls.com. Now through December 31st Driscoll's is running a Made with Love holiday sweepstakes where you can win a bright red Kitchenaid stand mixer and berries for a year  or berries for a year. 

I am also offering one lucky reader $100 in Driscoll's coupons to use on berries all year long! Simply leave a comment telling me your favorite berry idea for the holidays and I will choose a winner on December 10th. One entry per person and you must leave your email address and have a US mailing address to win. Only I will see your email address. 

Cran Raspberry Crumb Bars

Makes 25 bar cookies

Ingredients

Dough

1 cup blanched almonds (whole, sliced or slivered)

1 cup sugar

1 cup unsalted butter, softened

1 egg

1/4 teaspoon almond extract 

2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

Filling

1 cup cranberries

6 ounce Driscoll's fresh raspberries

1/4 cup sugar

Instructions 

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Chop the cranberries or pulse them about 20 times in a food processor. Combine the cranberries, raspberries and sugar in a small saucepan and gently cook for 5 minutes, mashing the berries with a wooden spoon or spatula. Set aside and let cool.

Line a 9-inch square baking pan with parchment paper, extending it over the edges. 

Pulse the almonds and sugar in a food processor. Transfer sugar mixture to a large mixing bowl. Cream the sugar and nut mixture with the butter until creamy. Mix in the egg and almond extract. Add the flour and stir until a crumbly dough forms.  Reserve 1 1/2 cups of the dough; set aside.

Press rest of the dough on bottom of the prepared baking pan. Spread filling to within 1/2 inch of edge. Crumble reserved dough over the top of the pan. Bake 35 - 40 minutes or until lightly browned. Cool completely on a rack then use the parchment to lift  out of the pan and cut into bars. 

Enjoy! 

Disclaimer: Driscoll's provided me with coupons for myself and the giveaway. They did not compensate me financially for this or any other post. 

All about Parmigiano Reggiano & Parmigiano Reggiano Night

Last year I got a chance to visit a caseificio, or cheese maker where Parmigiano Reggiano is made. I had to go early in the morning so I could see the cheese being pulled from curds out of large copper vats. 

I also saw where the cheese rested, where it was bathed in a salty brine and the delicious smelling room where it was aged. And of course I got to try the cheese at various ages.

The main way to distinguish between different types of Parmigiano Reggiano is by age, 14-18 months, 24 months, which is most popular with Italian consumers and 36 months.

Generally speaking, 14-18 month Parmigiano is paler and fruitier, with notes of citrus and pineapple. 24 month Parmigiano is nuttier and more buttery. 36 month Parmigiano is drier and spicier. As it ages, the cheese develops more crunchy crystals and more intensity.

Here in the US we buy Parmigiano Reggiano grated or in chunks, but we don't usually pay much attention to the age, season it was produced or the types of cow's milk. In Parma I brought home Parmigiano Reggiano that was made from the milk of red cows or Vacche Rosse, and also some cheese made in the Summer from cows who graze at a high elevation. Recently I spoke with Nancy Radke, Director of the US information office for the Consorzio del Formaggio Parmigiano Reggiano about the different special varieties and how to best use the cheese for cooking, and here's what she told me:

"Available in the US in addition to Vacche Rosse, but with more limited distribution, is Bianca Modenese, a Parmigiano Reggiano made with the milk of the other historic breed, the White Modenese. There is one other single breed Parmigiano Reggiano, Solo La Bruna, which is made only with the milk of one of the first Alpine breeds used--the Brown Swiss. 

All of these cheeses are made with milks that have more casein. Higher casein means that longer aging is possible, which allows the cheese to develop a more complex aroma profile. The milk of these breeds is also just a bit more fatty, which makes for great mouth-feel. So when you combine great mouth-feel with complex aromas, great solubility, and a big umami persistent finish, you have the perfect eating cheese, which should be savored the way one would a fine glass of Barolo.

For all purpose cooking, grating, and shaving the 24-month is ideal. For snacking (especially for kids) or making long glorious shavings the 16- to 18-month is great, because it is the least friable and crystalline, so it has a creamier mouth-feel and won't crumble when shaved. The 36-month has the most umami flavor, friability,and solubility, so this is the cheese to grate over pasta, stir into risotto, blend into an Alfredo sauce, layer into lasagne and use in pasta fillings."

If you've ever had a hard time getting Parmigiano Reggiano to melt, now you know why!

Last year Italy was still reeling from the effects of a massive earthquake that destroyed millions of dollars worth of cheese. So the first Parmigiano-Reggiano night was a national celebration of both the cheese, which is a national treasure, and to aid the cheese makers. 

This year marks the second annual Parmigiano Reggiano Night, and it falls on Saturday, November 30th. It's a celebration of the cheese and virtual dinner party the world over. It's also a great time to learn how to taste the cheese try some Parmigiano Reggiano recipes, and get to know and appreciate the cheese. 

Macaroni & Cheese Cookbook Smackdown!

There are plenty of macaroni and cheese cookbooks, and some of them are quite good. So do we need another one? That was my question when I heard about both of these new books, The Mac + Cheese Cookbook and Melt. Coincidentally both books are from renowned Northern California food bloggers. 

Out first and in a small format is The Mac + Cheese Cookbook, 50 Simple Recipes from HOMEROOM, America's Favorite Mac and Cheese Restaurant. The subtitle really tells it all. These are recipes from Allison Arevalo (her blog Local Lemons is no longer being updated) and Erin Wade's darling restaurant in Oakland. While the recipes are creative, they are straightforward, uncomplicated and fairly simple really. The ingredients are good quality but not particularly expensive or exotic. The book rounds out the mac and cheese recipes with side dishes and desserts. 

It's not a traditional restaurant cookbook, but rather very practical. Some of my favorite recipes in this book are actually not mac and cheese but the Brussels sprouts with bacon and apple cider vinaigrette and the peanut butter pie. 

It's not a ground breaking cookbook, but a good choice for mac and cheese fans and beginning cooks. Want to find a vegan mac and cheese recipe? A version of mac and cheese with blue cheese and walnuts? Or a "trailer" version with hot dogs and crushed potato chips? This is your book. Visit their restaurant Homeroom in Oakland.

Melt The Art of Macaroni and Cheese was written by two food bloggers I know and adore, Stephanie Stiavetti, The Culinary Life blogger and Garrett Cord the blogger behind Vanilla Garlic. So I was particularly concerned when I heard about the book.  But that was before I got a chance to see it. It is groundbreaking. If The Mac + Cheese Cookbook is a lifestyle book akin to the brand Target--think a little retro in style, mainstream and accessible--then Melt is practically the opposite--it's extremely innovative, sexy, and exotic. Frankly, it's a game changer. It redefines macaroni and cheese through the use of artisanal cheeses, many generally relegated to cheese plates, to wild combinations and new categories like salads, soups and desserts composed of noodles and cheese. 

I have to admit while there are a couple of recipes in this book that don't appeal to me, (I can't quite wrap my mind around the combinations of cheese and seafood or pasta and fruit) but most of them are just plain genius. That said they will take planning ahead to source some of the ingredients. My bookmarked recipes to try include Tomato Soup with Star Pasta and Vella Dry Jack Crisps, Pumpkin Stuffed with Fontina, Italian Sausage and Fontina, and Bianco Sardo with Collard Greens Pesto over Penne. 

Stephanie and Garrett are hosting a Le Creuset giveaway in honor of the book. Find out where they are appearing or attend a book signing. 

So do we need another macaroni and cheese book? I'm going to say an enthusiastic YES! 

Disclaimer: This post includes Amazon affiliate links